Harbor Freight (HF) rivet puller. The rivets for those tank-attach Z brackets are really hard to reach, so I bought a super-cheap Harbor Freight rivet puller to grind down just for the occasion. This has got to be the biggest piece of junk I've ever seen. (But, it did come standard with red sparkly paint.) It didn't work when I took it out of the box (internal spring way too long, causing it to never let go of the mandrel), and it broke in about 3 different ways while I was up against the clock to do the skin-baffle rivets. Fortunately, it's a ripoff of the Stanley (patented) rivet puller, so much so that the parts are interchangable. I had to change out most of the guts to make the thing work, and even then it only barely worked...and ejected the pulling mandrels out the top side so fast as to leave marks in the ceiling! Geez, talk about product liability...if one of those hit you in the eye it might make it to your brain!

Unibits. They're great, but they're awfully expensive at least through Avery. Seems like a simple piece of metal, and HF has some cheap ones. Dunno...

Rivet shaver bit. This thing is more than $30 and when you get a look at it you'll want it nowhere near your airplane. You can do a lot of damage with this puppy...most everyone seems to have bad luck with it. I've heard you need some really high RPMs, else it'll take a big bite and leave you crying. For internal stuff, you can just use the small scotchbrite wheel in the die grinder to level things out...

One-hole countersink. These are great, they never chatter, until they turn around and take revenge...in the form of that little shaving you see stuck in there. It'll cut a huge, deep ring into whatever you're working on. You really need to check it after every countersink, though I often don't due to the added time involved.

General Tools tubing cutter. I'm sure these are great for plumbers, but on soft aluminum tubing, they just take an eternity since they push the metal inward. Band saw or hack saw instead, when you can.

Carpenter's clamps. Someone told me I'd need them so I got one from HF, but this is the only time it's been on top of my drawer-o-clamps. Haven't used it once.

Tap-and-die set from HF. The taps worked ok, I guess, but the wrench (sitting on top) broke immediately. You can use a crescent wrench instead, but it's not as balanced. They may still be a decent deal though, "good" taps are very expensive, if you can find them.

General tools protractor-gizmo. Unfortunately the angles are impossible to read for most things you might like to measure. I guess this is for laying out compound cuts and things like that...not for airplanes. You might actually have to go to an office store to get a "real" protractor...

Great lubricants, why can't they put them in a better bottle? I'm not a slob, these bottles are just plain leaky. If you want one drop, you turn them upside down and you get one drop out the nozzle and two out the sides.

Polder scale, from Bed-Bath-and-Beyond---beyond worthless, I guess. I've been using this for mixing proseal, unfortunately it gets very out of whack if you even look at it funny. I am now power-cycling it between every measurement.

Auto-punch. The idea is you pull the spring in the middle and let go, punching your mark. Problem is it's very easy to come off of the target when you let go, puncturing your lovely airplane somewhere else... Just get the manual model if you must make punch marks.

4-inch no-hole yoke. This tool can save you sometimes, but it sure does flex a lot. I'm not sure if I'd trust it to squeeze an AD4 rivet...it is almost unacceptable on AD3 rivets.